The Charminar in Hyderabad's old city, Telangana

Hyderabad’s old city: the Charminar, Golconda and a table of biryani

The Charminar and its bazaars, the Nizams’ Chowmahalla Palace, Golconda Fort and the restored Qutb Shahi tombs, and the dishes that make Hyderabad one of India’s great food cities.

Mahek Jatana

30 October 2026

2 minutes

Modern Hyderabad is a city of tech parks and flyovers, but its heart is still the old city south of the Musi river, founded by the Qutb Shahi sultans in the late sixteenth century and later ruled by the Nizams. A day here, and a second at Golconda, covers four centuries of Deccan history and some of the best food in India.

The Charminar and its bazaars

The Charminar, a square monument with four minarets, was built in 1591 by Sultan Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah at the centre of his new city. Around it run the bazaars: Laad Bazaar for lacquer bangles studded with glass, and lanes of perfume, pearl and textile sellers. The Mecca Masjid nearby is one of the largest mosques in India; dress modestly and avoid prayer times.

Chowmahalla Palace and the Salar Jung Museum

The Chowmahalla Palace, the Nizams’ seat, has been restored as a museum, with courtyards, a grand durbar hall, vintage cars and costumes. Across the river, the Salar Jung Museum holds a vast private collection gathered by a Nizam’s prime minister, from European sculpture to Mughal jade. Check each museum’s weekly closing day before you go.

Golconda and the Qutb Shahi tombs

West of the city, Golconda Fort was the Qutb Shahi capital before Hyderabad, and the market for the diamonds of the region’s mines. Climb to the citadel for the views; the fort’s acoustics are famous, and guides will demonstrate how a clap at the gate carries to the top. Nearby, the domed tombs of the dynasty stand in the Qutb Shahi Heritage Park, restored over the past decade in a conservation project led by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture. Late afternoon is the best time for both.

What to eat

Hyderabadi biryani, layered and slow-cooked in the dum style.
Haleem, a slow-cooked wheat and meat dish eaten during Ramzan, which has a geographical indication tag.
Irani chai with Osmania biscuits in the city’s old cafés.
Qubani ka meetha, an apricot dessert served at weddings.

Planning

Getting around: the Hyderabad Metro and app cabs cover long distances; walk in the old city.
Timing: start early in the old city, before the heat and crowds; Fridays and festival days are especially busy.
When to go: October to February.

Add Warangal and the Ramappa Temple with our Telangana guide.