The magazine
India
Stories, guides and photos from my travels across India.
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How to plan a Central India trip: seasons, routes and safari timing
Read more →: How to plan a Central India trip: seasons, routes and safari timingA planning guide to Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh: when to go, how to time tiger safaris, how many days you need, how…
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Raipur, Sirpur and Mainpat: Chhattisgarh beyond Bastar
Read more →: Raipur, Sirpur and Mainpat: Chhattisgarh beyond BastarCentral and northern Chhattisgarh: Raipur as a gateway, the brick temples and Buddhist monasteries of Sirpur on the Mahanadi, and the Tibetan…
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Bastar: Chitrakote Falls, Kanger Valley and a slower Chhattisgarh
Read more →: Bastar: Chitrakote Falls, Kanger Valley and a slower ChhattisgarhSouthern Chhattisgarh’s forested Bastar region: Chitrakote and Tirathgarh falls, Kanger Valley National Park and its caves, Jagdalpur, weekly markets, crafts and the…
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Pachmarhi and the Satpura hills: Madhya Pradesh’s forest escape
Read more →: Pachmarhi and the Satpura hills: Madhya Pradesh’s forest escapeMadhya Pradesh’s only hill station, high in the Satpura range: waterfalls, caves, viewpoints, forest walks and the wider Satpura landscape, with seasons…
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Malwa: Indore’s food, Ujjain’s temples, Mandu’s ruins and Maheshwar on the Narmada
Read more →: Malwa: Indore’s food, Ujjain’s temples, Mandu’s ruins and Maheshwar on the NarmadaA route through western Madhya Pradesh: Indore for street food, the temple city of Ujjain, the ruined hilltop capital of Mandu, and…
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Bhopal, Sanchi and Bhimbetka: lakes, a Buddhist stupa and prehistoric art
Read more →: Bhopal, Sanchi and Bhimbetka: lakes, a Buddhist stupa and prehistoric artMadhya Pradesh’s capital and two UNESCO World Heritage Sites within day-trip range: Bhopal’s lakes and mosques, the stupas of Sanchi and the…
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Kanha and Bandhavgarh: a practical guide to tiger safaris in Madhya Pradesh
Read more →: Kanha and Bandhavgarh: a practical guide to tiger safaris in Madhya PradeshHow safaris work in Kanha and Bandhavgarh: the season, core and buffer zones, booking through the official portal, choosing a gate, what…
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Orchha and Gwalior: river palaces, a hilltop fort and a city of music
Read more →: Orchha and Gwalior: river palaces, a hilltop fort and a city of musicTwo heritage stops in northern Madhya Pradesh: Orchha’s Bundela palaces and cenotaphs on the Betwa river, and Gwalior’s great fort, the Man…
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Khajuraho: how to see the Chandela temples slowly
Read more →: Khajuraho: how to see the Chandela temples slowlyA guide to Khajuraho’s UNESCO-listed temples in Madhya Pradesh: what the Western, Eastern and Southern groups hold, how to pace a visit,…
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West India itineraries: four routes through Goa, Maharashtra and Gujarat
Read more →: West India itineraries: four routes through Goa, Maharashtra and GujaratFour flexible West India routes, from a week of Mumbai and Goa to Gujarat’s heritage and the White Rann, with day-by-day outlines…