Behind Kerala’s coast lies a maze of lagoons, lakes, rivers and canals that runs for hundreds of kilometres. Villages, paddy fields, churches and temples line the banks, and much of local life still moves by water. For most visitors the backwaters mean a houseboat, but there are several ways in, and the right one depends on how much time you have and how slowly you like to travel.
Alappuzha or Kumarakom?
Alappuzha (Alleppey) is the busiest base, with hundreds of houseboats, the widest choice of prices and easy access by road and rail. Kumarakom, on the eastern shore of Vembanad Lake, is quieter and more resort-based, with a bird sanctuary nearby. Kumarakom is also where Kerala’s Responsible Tourism programme began, linking hotels with local farmers, fishers and craftspeople.
If you want calm water and space, consider a smaller base such as Kollam, the canals around Kuttanad, or a homestay on one of the islands.
What a houseboat day is like
A kettuvallam was originally a rice barge, built of wood and coir. Today’s houseboats keep the shape but add bedrooms, a sundeck and a crew who cook Kerala meals on board. A typical overnight trip boards around midday, cruises through the afternoon and moors for the night; boats generally stop cruising in the evening, so do not expect to travel after dark.
- Day cruise: a few hours on the lake and main channels; good if you are short of time.
- Overnight: the classic experience, with lunch, sunset and breakfast on board.
- Canoe or country boat: the best way into the narrow village canals that houseboats cannot enter.
Choosing an operator
- Book with operators approved or classified by Kerala Tourism, and ask what the price includes (meals, air-conditioning hours, route).
- Ask about waste and sewage handling; better boats have proper systems rather than discharging into the water.
- Smaller boats and shorter routes mean less time in the crowded main channel near Alappuzha.
- A life jacket should be on board for every guest.
When to go
The backwaters are open all year. October to February is the most comfortable; the monsoon from June to September brings heavy rain but green, quiet waterways. August is snake-boat race season, when long racing boats with dozens of rowers compete; the best known is the Nehru Trophy Boat Race on Punnamada Lake near Alappuzha.
Travel lightly
- Refill water bottles from the boat’s supply instead of buying plastic.
- Ask before photographing people washing, fishing or working at the water’s edge.
- Eat local: karimeen (pearl spot fish), appam with stew and red rice are backwater staples.
For the wider region, see our Kerala guide.
Sources and image credits
Facts that can change were checked on 30 October 2026:
Photography: Ravi Kant via Pexels (Pexels License); Gladin Joseph via Pexels (Pexels License). Stock images, not the author’s own.
Houseboat rules, licensing and boat-race dates change. Check Kerala Tourism and your operator before you book.
