Madurai is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in South India, and its centre is still the temple. The streets of the old city are laid out in concentric squares around the Meenakshi Amman Temple, dedicated to the goddess Meenakshi and her consort Sundareswarar, a form of Shiva. The present complex largely dates from the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries under the Nayak rulers.
The temple
Fourteen gateway towers, or gopurams, rise above the walls, covered in thousands of brightly painted figures of gods, demons and animals; the tallest, on the south side, is around 52 metres high. Inside are long pillared corridors, the Golden Lotus tank where pilgrims bathe, and the Hall of a Thousand Pillars, which houses a small museum of temple art.
- Non-Hindus may visit the complex but not the inner sanctums.
- Dress modestly: cover shoulders and knees. Shoes are left at counters outside.
- Mobile phones and cameras are not allowed inside; use the deposit counters at the entrances.
- Visit early in the morning, or for the evening ceremony when Sundareswarar is carried to Meenakshi’s shrine for the night.
Around the old city
The Thirumalai Nayakkar Mahal, a seventeenth-century palace with huge columns and arches, is a short walk from the temple, and the Gandhi Memorial Museum in a former palace tells the story of the independence movement, including the blood-stained cloth Gandhi wore when he was killed. The tailors and textile shops of the streets around the temple are a sight in themselves.
The Chithirai festival
Madurai’s biggest festival takes place in the Tamil month of Chithirai, usually April or May, celebrating the marriage of Meenakshi and Sundareswarar. Huge crowds fill the city for the temple-car processions and the arrival of the deity Kallazhagar at the Vaigai river. It is a remarkable spectacle, but book accommodation well ahead.
What to eat
- Soft idlis and dosas with several chutneys, from early morning.
- Jigarthanda, a cold drink of milk, almond gum and ice cream that is a Madurai speciality.
- Mutton dishes in the city’s non-vegetarian ‘mess’ restaurants.
Planning
- Getting there: Madurai has an airport and is a major rail junction.
- Time needed: two nights lets you visit the temple twice, morning and evening.
- When to go: October to March. Summer is very hot.
See our Tamil Nadu guide for Thanjavur, Chettinad and Rameswaram.
Sources and image credits
Facts that can change were checked on 30 October 2026:
- Wikipedia: Meenakshi Temple
- Wikipedia: Thirumalai Nayakkar Mahal
- Wikipedia: Chithirai Thiruvizha
- Tamil Nadu Tourism (official)
Photography: Melissa Kumaresan via Unsplash (Unsplash License). A stock image, not the author’s own.
Temple rules and timings change. Check locally and follow the instructions of temple staff.
