At Varkala, about 50 kilometres north of Thiruvananthapuram, red laterite cliffs rise straight from the Arabian Sea, an unusual sight on Kerala’s mostly flat coast. A path runs along the cliff top, lined with cafés and guesthouses, and steps lead down to the beach below. Varkala is relaxed and easy to like, and it makes a good base for the southern tip of the state.
The cliff and the beach
The main beach, Papanasam, is sacred to Hindus: families come here to perform rites for ancestors, and the Janardhana Swamy Temple stands on the hill above. Respect this part of the beach, especially in the early morning. Quieter beaches lie to the north, towards Odayam and Kappil, where the backwaters meet the sea.
- Currents can be strong. Swim only where lifeguards are on duty.
- The cliff path is unfenced in places; take care after dark and in the rain.
- Dress more modestly away from the beach itself.
Sivagiri
On a hill near the town is Sivagiri, the samadhi of Sree Narayana Guru, the social reformer who campaigned against caste discrimination in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. It draws large numbers of pilgrims, especially around the end of December.
Thiruvananthapuram
Kerala’s capital is often skipped, but it has the Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple, whose inner temple is open only to Hindus and has a strict dress code, and a cluster of museums and galleries in the Napier Museum grounds, including the Sree Chitra Art Gallery with paintings by Raja Ravi Varma.
South to Kovalam and beyond
Kovalam’s crescent beaches were among the first in Kerala to draw international visitors. Further south, the road continues into Tamil Nadu and to Kanyakumari at the tip of the peninsula, a long day trip or an overnight stop.
Planning
- When to go: October to March. The monsoon from June brings rough seas and many businesses close.
- Getting there: Varkala Sivagiri station is on the main coastal railway; Thiruvananthapuram airport is about an hour away by road.
- How long: two or three nights, with a day in Thiruvananthapuram.
More in our Kerala guide.
Sources and image credits
Facts that can change were checked on 30 October 2026:
- Wikipedia: Varkala
- Wikipedia: Sivagiri, Varkala
- Wikipedia: Padmanabhaswamy Temple
- Kerala Tourism (official)
Photography: Faraz Ghori via Unsplash (Unsplash License). A stock image, not the author’s own.
Sea conditions change daily. Swim only where lifeguards are on duty and follow the flags.
