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India
Stories, guides and photos from my travels across India.
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How to plan a West India trip: states, gateways, seasons and pacing
Read more →: How to plan a West India trip: states, gateways, seasons and pacingA practical starting point for West India: what Goa, Maharashtra and Gujarat offer, where to fly in, how long you need, when…
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Kutch and the White Rann: salt desert, crafts and the Rann Utsav season
Read more →: Kutch and the White Rann: salt desert, crafts and the Rann Utsav seasonHow to visit the White Rann of Kutch from Bhuj: the salt flats around Dhordo, the Rann Utsav season, permits, craft villages,…
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Ahmedabad and its stepwells: a heritage city, Adalaj and the Sun Temple at Modhera
Read more →: Ahmedabad and its stepwells: a heritage city, Adalaj and the Sun Temple at ModheraWalk the old pols of Ahmedabad, India’s first World Heritage City, then head out to the carved Adalaj Stepwell, the Sun Temple…
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Into the Western Ghats: Maharashtra’s hill stations, forts and monsoon roads
Read more →: Into the Western Ghats: Maharashtra’s hill stations, forts and monsoon roadsEscape the coast into the Western Ghats: Lonavala and Khandala, Mahabaleshwar and Panchgani, the ghat roads in monsoon and the Maratha hill…
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Ajanta and Ellora: how to visit Maharashtra’s great rock-cut caves
Read more →: Ajanta and Ellora: how to visit Maharashtra’s great rock-cut cavesA practical guide to Ajanta’s painted Buddhist caves and Ellora’s Buddhist, Hindu and Jain monuments, including the Kailasa temple, with how to…
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A first few days in Mumbai: heritage buildings, the sea and the food
Read more →: A first few days in Mumbai: heritage buildings, the sea and the foodHow to spend a first visit to Mumbai: the Gateway of India and the Fort district, the UNESCO-listed Victorian Gothic and Art…
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North or South Goa? How to choose your stretch of coast
Read more →: North or South Goa? How to choose your stretch of coastGoa’s coast changes character from north to south. A practical guide to choosing between the busier northern beaches and the quieter south,…
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Old Goa and Panaji: churches, the Latin quarter and an unhurried river town
Read more →: Old Goa and Panaji: churches, the Latin quarter and an unhurried river townA day or two away from the beaches: the UNESCO-listed churches and convents of Old Goa, the Basilica of Bom Jesus, and…
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East India itineraries: four suggested routes
Read more →: East India itineraries: four suggested routesFour suggested routes through East India, from a week in Kolkata and Darjeeling to Odisha’s temple coast, Bihar’s Buddhist circuit and a…
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Getting around East India: flights, trains, roads and boats
Read more →: Getting around East India: flights, trains, roads and boatsHow to move between Kolkata, the hills, Odisha, Bihar and Jharkhand: domestic flights, overnight trains, hired cars, the Darjeeling toy train and…
