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India
Stories, guides and photos from my travels across India.
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How to plan an East India trip: regions, gateways and pacing
Read more →: How to plan an East India trip: regions, gateways and pacingA practical starting point for planning East India: what the four states offer, where to fly in, how long you need, how…
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East India seasons: when to go, region by region
Read more →: East India seasons: when to go, region by regionWhen to visit Kolkata, the Darjeeling hills, the Sundarbans, Odisha’s coast, Bihar’s Buddhist sites and Jharkhand’s waterfalls, with monsoon, cyclone and festival…
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Jharkhand’s waterfalls and the Netarhat plateau
Read more →: Jharkhand’s waterfalls and the Netarhat plateauA guide to Jharkhand’s plateau country: the waterfalls around Ranchi, the Patratu valley, the hill station of Netarhat and the forests of…
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Nalanda and Rajgir: ancient ruins and the hills where the Buddha taught
Read more →: Nalanda and Rajgir: ancient ruins and the hills where the Buddha taughtA guide to Nalanda, the ruins of one of the world’s great monastic universities, and nearby Rajgir, with its hills, the Vishwa…
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Bodh Gaya and the Mahabodhi Temple: a guide for a first visit
Read more →: Bodh Gaya and the Mahabodhi Temple: a guide for a first visitHow to visit Bodh Gaya, where the Buddha attained enlightenment: the Mahabodhi Temple and the Bodhi Tree, the international monasteries, etiquette and…
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Chilika Lake: dolphins, winter birds and the island temple of Kalijai
Read more →: Chilika Lake: dolphins, winter birds and the island temple of KalijaiA guide to Chilika, Odisha’s vast coastal lagoon: Irrawaddy dolphins from Satapada, migratory birds around Nalabana, the Kalijai temple island and how…
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Bhubaneswar, Konark and Puri: a guide to Odisha’s temple triangle
Read more →: Bhubaneswar, Konark and Puri: a guide to Odisha’s temple triangleThree temple towns within a couple of hours of each other: the Lingaraj and old Bhubaneswar, the 13th-century Sun Temple at Konark,…
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The Sundarbans: how to visit the world’s largest mangrove forest
Read more →: The Sundarbans: how to visit the world’s largest mangrove forestWhat a trip to the Sundarbans is really like: tidal creeks and mangroves, the realistic chances of seeing a tiger, permits, choosing…
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A first few days in Kolkata: the river, the old neighbourhoods and the food
Read more →: A first few days in Kolkata: the river, the old neighbourhoods and the foodHow to approach Kolkata on a first visit: the Victoria Memorial and the Maidan, the Hooghly at dusk, north Kolkata’s lanes and…
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Darjeeling’s tea country: estates, the toy train and the long view of Kangchenjunga
Read more →: Darjeeling’s tea country: estates, the toy train and the long view of KangchenjungaHow to spend a few unhurried days in Darjeeling: the tea estates, the UNESCO-listed Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, early-morning mountain views and a…
