The magazine
India
Stories, guides and photos from my travels across India.
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South India by mood: coast, hills, temples, food, wildlife and quiet
Read more →: South India by mood: coast, hills, temples, food, wildlife and quietChoose a South India trip by how you want it to feel: slow coastal days, cool hills, temple towns, food-first cities, forests…
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A South Indian food guide, state by state
Read more →: A South Indian food guide, state by stateThere is no single South Indian cuisine. A state-by-state guide to what to eat in Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana…
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South India itineraries: four routes for one to two weeks
Read more →: South India itineraries: four routes for one to two weeksFour suggested shapes for a South India trip: classic Kerala, the Tamil Nadu temple trail, Karnataka’s palaces and ruins, and a two-week…
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Getting around South India: trains, flights, buses, ferries and roads
Read more →: Getting around South India: trains, flights, buses, ferries and roadsHow to move between South India’s states and cities: when to take the train, when to fly, how state buses and hired…
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When to visit South India: the two monsoons, the cool season and the hills
Read more →: When to visit South India: the two monsoons, the cool season and the hillsSouth India has two monsoons that reach its two coasts at different times. A season-by-season guide to when to go where, from…
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How to plan a South India trip: regions, gateways and how much to fit in
Read more →: How to plan a South India trip: regions, gateways and how much to fit inSouth India is five states and a union territory with very different landscapes. A practical planner: how the regions divide, which gateways…
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Puducherry on foot: White Town, the Tamil Quarter and a day in Auroville
Read more →: Puducherry on foot: White Town, the Tamil Quarter and a day in AurovilleA walking route through Puducherry’s French and Tamil quarters, the seafront Promenade and the Ashram, with a day trip to Auroville and…
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Hyderabad’s old city: the Charminar, Golconda and a table of biryani
Read more →: Hyderabad’s old city: the Charminar, Golconda and a table of biryaniThe Charminar and its bazaars, the Nizams’ Chowmahalla Palace, Golconda Fort and the restored Qutb Shahi tombs, and the dishes that make…
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Visakhapatnam and the Araku Valley: coast, caves and coffee in the Eastern Ghats
Read more →: Visakhapatnam and the Araku Valley: coast, caves and coffee in the Eastern GhatsVizag’s beaches and hilltop Buddhist sites, the railway into the Eastern Ghats, the Borra Caves and the Adivasi-grown coffee of the Araku…
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Karnataka’s coffee country: Kodagu, Chikkamagaluru and the hills where Indian coffee began
Read more →: Karnataka’s coffee country: Kodagu, Chikkamagaluru and the hills where Indian coffee beganWhere coffee first took root in India, how the estates of Kodagu and Chikkamagaluru work through the year, and how to plan…