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India
Stories, guides and photos from my travels across India.
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A walk through Old Delhi: the Red Fort, Chandni Chowk and the Jama Masjid
Read more →: A walk through Old Delhi: the Red Fort, Chandni Chowk and the Jama MasjidShah Jahan’s walled city in one unhurried day: the Red Fort, the bazaar street of Chandni Chowk and its temples, gurdwara and…
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A day in Le Corbusier’s Chandigarh: the Capitol Complex, the Rock Garden and the lake
Read more →: A day in Le Corbusier’s Chandigarh: the Capitol Complex, the Rock Garden and the lakeChandigarh rewards a slow day on foot: the UNESCO-listed Capitol Complex, Nek Chand’s Rock Garden, Sukhna Lake and the small museums that…
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How to plan a North India trip: choosing the season, the region and the route
Read more →: How to plan a North India trip: choosing the season, the region and the routeNorth India is too big and too varied to see in one go. A practical planner: which regions suit which months, how…
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Heritage Punjab: Anandpur Sahib, Patiala, Kapurthala and the craft of phulkari
Read more →: Heritage Punjab: Anandpur Sahib, Patiala, Kapurthala and the craft of phulkariBeyond Amritsar: the birthplace of the Khalsa and its museum, Patiala’s reopened palace museums, Kapurthala’s French-designed mosque, and the phulkari embroidery of…
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Punjab’s food traditions: the village tandoor, winter saag and the langar
Read more →: Punjab’s food traditions: the village tandoor, winter saag and the langarWheat, dairy and the tandoor shape the Punjabi table. A guide to the dishes, seasons and customs behind Punjab’s food, and how…
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Amritsar beyond the Golden Temple: museums, memory and the city’s kitchens
Read more →: Amritsar beyond the Golden Temple: museums, memory and the city’s kitchensThe Golden Temple is the heart of Amritsar, but the city also holds the Partition Museum, Jallianwala Bagh, Gobindgarh Fort, the border…
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Leh, Nubra, Pangong and Tso Moriri: how to plan Ladakh’s classic routes responsibly
Read more →: Leh, Nubra, Pangong and Tso Moriri: how to plan Ladakh’s classic routes responsiblyLeh and its monasteries, the Nubra valley over Khardung La, Pangong Tso and the quieter Tso Moriri: what each place is like,…
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Planning a Ladakh trip: seasons, roads, acclimatisation and permits
Read more →: Planning a Ladakh trip: seasons, roads, acclimatisation and permitsHow to plan Ladakh well: when the roads open, how to choose between flying and driving in, the official acclimatisation rules, permits,…
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Walking in Pahalgam: the Lidder Valley, what’s open and how to plan
Read more →: Walking in Pahalgam: the Lidder Valley, what’s open and how to planPahalgam’s meadows and forest trails, Aru and Betaab, the treks that start beyond them, and the closures every visitor needs to know…
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Tulip season in Srinagar: planning a spring visit to Kashmir
Read more →: Tulip season in Srinagar: planning a spring visit to KashmirWhen the tulip garden opens, what else flowers in March and April, and how to plan a spring trip around Srinagar’s gardens…
