The magazine
India
Stories, guides and photos from my travels across India.
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Mysuru beyond the palace: Dasara, markets and Srirangapatna
Read more →: Mysuru beyond the palace: Dasara, markets and SrirangapatnaMysore Palace by day and lit up at night, the Dasara festival, Devaraja Market, Chamundi Hill and the island town of Srirangapatna:…
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Hampi: how to explore the ruins of Vijayanagara
Read more →: Hampi: how to explore the ruins of VijayanagaraThe living Virupaksha Temple, the Vittala Temple and its stone chariot, the Royal Centre and the boulder hills of the Tungabhadra: a…
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A first visit to Madurai and the Meenakshi Amman Temple
Read more →: A first visit to Madurai and the Meenakshi Amman TempleHow to visit the Meenakshi Amman Temple well, what to see in the old city around it, the great Chithirai festival and…
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Mahabalipuram: reading the Pallava stone carvings by the sea
Read more →: Mahabalipuram: reading the Pallava stone carvings by the seaThe Shore Temple, the Five Rathas, Arjuna’s Penance and the cave shrines of Mahabalipuram: what to see at this UNESCO-listed Pallava port,…
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A slow day in Fort Kochi and Mattancherry
Read more →: A slow day in Fort Kochi and MattancherryThe Chinese fishing nets, St Francis Church, the Mattancherry Palace murals, the Paradesi Synagogue and the spice warehouses of Kochi’s old port,…
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Varkala and Kerala’s southern coast: cliffs, beaches and Thiruvananthapuram
Read more →: Varkala and Kerala’s southern coast: cliffs, beaches and ThiruvananthapuramVarkala’s red cliffs and Papanasam beach, the pilgrim town of Sivagiri, the capital Thiruvananthapuram and the beaches to the south, with notes…
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Munnar’s tea country: estates, Eravikulam and the slow hill roads
Read more →: Munnar’s tea country: estates, Eravikulam and the slow hill roadsTea estates in the Kannan Devan Hills, the Nilgiri tahr of Eravikulam, the high viewpoint at Top Station and how to plan…
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Kerala’s backwaters: how to choose a houseboat, a canoe or a quieter way in
Read more →: Kerala’s backwaters: how to choose a houseboat, a canoe or a quieter way inAlappuzha, Kumarakom and the smaller canals: how the backwaters work, what a houseboat day is really like, and how to choose an…
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Haryana’s winter wetlands: birding at Sultanpur and Bhindawas
Read more →: Haryana’s winter wetlands: birding at Sultanpur and BhindawasTwo Ramsar wetlands within reach of Delhi: Sultanpur National Park near Gurugram and Bhindawas in Jhajjar. When to go, what to look…
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A first visit to Varanasi: the ghats, the aarti and a morning in Sarnath
Read more →: A first visit to Varanasi: the ghats, the aarti and a morning in SarnathHow to see Varanasi slowly and respectfully: the ghats on foot and by boat, the evening aarti at Dashashwamedh, dawn at Assi,…