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India
Stories, guides and photos from my travels across India.
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Exploring old Srinagar: wooden shrines, stone mosques and the bridges of the Jhelum
Read more →: Exploring old Srinagar: wooden shrines, stone mosques and the bridges of the JhelumA walk through Shahar-e-Khaas, Srinagar’s old city: Khanqah-e-Moula, Pathar Masjid, the Jamia Masjid, the bridges of the Jhelum and the foods made…
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Flavours of Kashmir: a guide to the Valley’s food, from wazwan to noon chai
Read more →: Flavours of Kashmir: a guide to the Valley’s food, from wazwan to noon chaiWazwan and its waza cooks, the Pandit kitchen, pink salt tea, the kandur’s morning bread and winter harissa: how food works in…
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Slow weekends in the Himalayan foothills
Read more →: Slow weekends in the Himalayan foothillsQuiet hill towns, village walks and valley views in Himachal Pradesh, planned for a slow two- or three-day break.
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Lesser-known places in North India: eight quieter corners worth seeking out
Read more →: Lesser-known places in North India: eight quieter corners worth seeking outA stepwell city, a palace town, a hill station near Chandigarh, a forest of tigers and a village at the end of…
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Living traditions in Uttarakhand: temples, rivers and the people who keep them
Read more →: Living traditions in Uttarakhand: temples, rivers and the people who keep themAipan patterns, the seeds of Harela, masked Ramman theatre and the temples of Jageshwar: traditions that are still part of everyday life.
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A different side of Himachal Pradesh: the Kangra Valley, slowly
Read more →: A different side of Himachal Pradesh: the Kangra Valley, slowlyAn artists’ village, Tibetan monasteries, a thirteenth-century temple and a narrow-gauge railway under the Dhauladhar range.
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A weekend in the mountains that feels like a reset: two slow days in the Tirthan Valley
Read more →: A weekend in the mountains that feels like a reset: two slow days in the Tirthan ValleyRiver sounds, timber villages and a forest walk to a high lake: a two-day plan for Jibhi and the Tirthan Valley in…
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Five meetings, one river: the Panch Prayag of Uttarakhand
Read more →: Five meetings, one river: the Panch Prayag of UttarakhandAlong the Alaknanda, five rivers join the main stream in turn. By Devprayag, the water takes the name Ganga. Here is how…
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Rishikesh beyond the obvious
Read more →: Rishikesh beyond the obviousSuspension bridges, evening Ganga aarti, a waterfall and a cave near the river, for travellers who want more than rafting.
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A Jaipur weekend for first-timers
Read more →: A Jaipur weekend for first-timersForts, palaces, bazaars and a sunset view over the Pink City, arranged into a relaxed two-day plan.
